Introduction: These three vegetal cosmetic additives are natural alternatives to the animal-based ones gained from fresh glands and organs or from other animal cell materials.

 

In a 1979 paper (1), the author summarized his long experience with metabolically active extracts prepared from fresh animal (swine, cow) materials like placenta, amnion, blood, kidney, thymus, skin etc. For patent reasons, the comprehensive research done with the above-mentioned plant-based highly metabolically active extracts Cytocatalyzer and Seryel was not discussed in that publication. Research with Cytocatalyzer prepared from Saccaromyces cerevisae dates back to 1945 (2,3). Cytocatalyzer has been on the market in Japan for 20 years. Rye placenta, Secale cereale, is the starting material for Seryel, used for some years in Asia. The same is true for Collaplant PO, which is prepared from Platanus occidentalis. Interest in Seryel and Collaplant increased during the BSE crisis, which is described in detail in a 2002 paper by the author (6).

 

The use of vegetal starting materials was decisive for the development of Cytocatalyzer (I), Seryel (II), and Collaplant PO (III), characterized in tables 1 and 2.

 

The water-soluble bio-complexes I, II, and III are plant-based additives for cosmetics that provide a comprehensive alternative to the known animal materials available. The requirement, through suitable measures, to obtain plant cell preparations similar or equivalent to the animal starting materials in respect to characteristics and composition determined the choice of the plants and plant materials to be considered.

 

Here some details about the preparation and properties of I, II, and III: Cytocatalyzer (I) is prepared from Saccaromyces cerevisae, subjected to several physical influences simultaneously, followed by filtration, deproteinization with citric cycle acids and deodorization.

 

Seryel (II) is prepared by several extractions of rye placenta materials (rye = Secale cereale) via cell-culture (9). Here placenta means: rye carpel incl. ovule plus protein-rich aleura layer of bran.

 

Collaplant PO (III) is prepared from the starting material Platanus occidentalis, splitting the cell wall glycoproteins, which are rich in hydroxyproline and other collagen-amino acids, followed by hydrolysis, and deproteinization of the rest by citric cycle acids. The preparations I and II contain more than 100 components from the classes: carbohydrates, peptides, amino acids, nucleic acid components, acids, vitamins, minerals and trace elements. The peptides are particularly significant.

 

I and II activate the cell metabolism, which means that they increase ATP production and thus the energy necessary for the various cell functions. Using the Warburg-method, the activation of the cell metabolism by I and II can be demonstrated A) anaerobically by increased fermentation and B) aerobically by increased cell respiration:

 

-         A) Manometric measurement of increased CO₂ production of a fermenting yeast system under influence of I or II.

 

-         B) Manometric measurement of increased O₂  consumption of liver-homogenate under influence of I or II.

 

The aforementioned activation of the cell metabolism by I or II can also be demonstrated by growth experiments with tadpoles (Xenopus laevis) or guppy-fish: table 2.

 

I and II contain many buffer substances and salts of the citric acid cycle, including alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) thus guaranteeing a softening effect. Proof: According to Padberg-test, the roughness of human skin is reduced to 70% compared with placebo if I or II is applied in water/oil emulsion for one to two weeks.

 

Deserving of mention is the accelerated healing of wounds when using I and II, meaning better epithelialization and better cell proliferation in the case of rough, dry, chapped and scarified skin.

 

I directly and indirectly regulates the humidity- retaining capacity of skin.

 

I, II, and III successfully passed all toxicological and allergological tests according to Turner, Draize, Buehler and human Patch-test. I, II, and III are all Prion-free.

 

Collaplant PO (III) is a suitable substitute for animal collagen – regulating and ameliorating the humidity-maintaining capacity of the skin: Fig 1. In this respect III is superior to I and II; corneometer test: +++ compared with I and II (Table II).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig.1: Skin moisture measurements (in scale divisions of Corneometer M 420) of 20 probands (aged 40-70 years) with 1% and 3% Collaplant PO emulsion and placebo up to 120 minutes.

 

 

 

 

Key to fig 1: The initial skin value (control) is almost constant. Aqua dest. shows clear “drying out” after approximately 30 minutes. The emulsion without Collaplant PO gives 40-60 minute values that fall slightly below the initial skin values in the “drying out zone”. The moisture-retaining effect lasts over two hours with the 1% water/oil emulsion. With the 3% emulsion a clear increase of the initial skin value is discernible even after 120 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Table 1: Examples for quality standard of Cytocatalyzer (I), Seryel (II), and Collaplant PO (III)

 

	I	II	III
pH	6,7	6,7	6,2
dry substances (%)	4,1	1,6	6,3
N (%)	0,41	0,2	0,42
amino acids *)	+	+	+
peptides**)	+	+	+
hydroxyproline (%)			>0,1
nucleic acid components	+	+
metabolic activity (Warburg factor)	>1,9	>2,0
melanoma B16 test (mouse)		+	+++
Purity
heavy metals (ppm)	< 20
As (ppm)	< 2
proteins	protein-free
Sterility	germ-free
Prions	Prion-free

            *)   ninhydrin

            **) biuret

 

 

Table 2: Biological effects of Cytocatalyzer (I) and Seryel (II)

Activity tests*)	(I)	(II)
metabolic activity Warburg-factor	>1,9  (1,8-2-2)	>2,0  (1,8-2,4)
growth tests
a)      guppy fish length in mm after 20 days	22,0 (18,0)**)	21,5 (18,0)**)
b)      tadpole Xenopus laevis D. shortening of metamorphosis in days	3-5	3-5
wound healing skin-tension after 20 days diff. experiment / control group	240	240
Padberg test	70 (85) **)	70 (85)**)
corneometer test humidity retaining capacity	+	+

*)   test methods described in (7)

**) in brackets: control experiments.

 

References, written by the author:

 

(1)   Metabolism-activating organ extracts. Cosmetics and Toiletries 1977; 92 (11): 25-26 and 1979; 94 (11): 71-86 (with Th. Wons and W.H. Chik)

 

(2)   Versuche zur Abtötung von Hefezellen unter möglichst schonenden Bedingungen, z.B. durch gleichzeitige Einwirkung mehrerer physikalischer Einflüsse: Gewinnung neuartiger Hefezell-Präparationen aus Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Laboratory reports, Dec.1945 to March 1947.

 

(3)   Hefepräparationen Y20 and Y20 Dialysate. Mitt.Physiolog.chem.Inst. Berlin Juli 1948, 15 Seiten – Basis for later patent applications, cited under (4,5).

 

(4)   Verfahren zur Herstellung thallophytischer and bryophytischer Zytorrhysate, danach hergestellte Chemizytorrhysate und deren Verwendung zur Nährstoffergänzung (incl. Cosmetic), DE 3402168 A1 vom 23.1.1984; JAP 9807-85 vom 22.1. 1985 and many others; inventor: R.Riemschneider, holder: A.Wank. older: A.

 

(5)   Gärungsteigerndes Zellpräparat auf Pflanzenbasis, z.B. Y20, Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung und dessen Verwendung. DE 40 42157 C 2, CH 684274, China 91195974, JAP 90058-92 ; inventor : R.Riemschneider. holder : M.Salvioni, Schweiz or Yamakawa and Company, Ltd., Tokyo, Japan.

 

(6)   Two Notes on Progress in BSE crisis: 1) Substitution of organ extracts prepared from fresh glands by BSE-free cell line extracts, 2) A new probiotic animal food additive based on plant material useful in BSE crisis, “The Journal of Global Issues & Solutions: the Bi-Monthly Journal of the BWW Society”, July 2002: Conference meeting in Saint Germain-en-Laye (Paris), Aug. 4-8, (2002). "The Journal of Global Issues & Solutions: The Bi-Monthly Journal of the BWW Society" 06.07.02, 4 pages (http://www.society.org/journal/html/bsicrisis.htm).

 

(7)   Wasserlösliche Organextracte mit verbessertem biochemischen Wirkungsgrad aus Zellinien der entsprechenden Organe. Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und Verwendung. DE 1 9624476 A 1 from Dec. 10, 1997, 49 pages; inventor and holder: R.Riemschneider; also (8).

 

(8)   Cell-line based organ material beats BSE risk in animal organ extracts, Relata Technica Web Site http://www.vevy.com/relata, Issues, Articles 2001 (International Electronic Journal on Dermopharmacological Research, Dermopharmaceutical Technology and Related Cosmetic Subjects). 

 

(9)   Patent-applications pending

 

Experiments were conducted at the following institutes and laboratories:

 

Pharmaceutical Inst., Univ. Jena (1945-46); Physiolog.-chem. Inst., Univ. Berlin(East) (1947-50); Chemical Inst., Free University Berlin (West) [FU] (1950-57); Biochemical Inst., FU ibid (1958-87); Chemical Central Inst., Univ. Santa Maria (UFSM) Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil (1965-90); Industrial Laboratories of Consulting-Development-Engineering, Rio de Janeiro, S. Paulo,  Curitiba, and Research Laboratories of Dr. Streuli Co/AG, Uznach, Switzerland (1990-2000). 

 

 

BWW Society Member Dr. Randolph G.A. Riemschneider is a graduate of the University of Berlin and has a career of more than a half-century of scientific research. His areas of study include Polyacyl Chemistry, specifically o-Diacetylbenzene; his other research areas include work with natural, synthetic and cell-cultured BSE-free organ extracts. Metabolism activation, stereochemistry and other specialized work.

 

Editor's note: The author reported in our journal 2002 (6) on BSE (bovine spongiforme enzephalopathy) and the BSE crisis in respect of the ban on medical and cosmetic use of animal materials like organ extracts and demonstrated a way out (http://www.bwwsociety.org/journal/html/bsicrisis.htm). Another possibility for substituting animal extracts is to increase the use of  plant-based starting materials, for instance vegetal-based products like Cytocatalyzer, Seryel and Collaplant PO, described in this paper.